One of the more pleasing results of the development of South Delhi over the past several decades is the variegated urban fabric produced by adding yet one more layer of building construction to an architectural legacy dating back to the so-called Slave Dynasty c. 1192-1287.
Stroll in almost any direction from your doorstep, and you will soon find yourself face-to-face with a trace of Delhi’s long architectural history in the form of a tomb, mosque, shrine or antique wall. For instance, it is almost impossible to take an evening walk without encountering one or more Lodi Tombs, built c. 1451-1526 on what was then an open and sparsely populated land. The Lodi Tombs are spread over a broad area in South Delhi, but are often encountered in clusters, making it easy to visit two or three at a time.
Lodi Tomb Patterns
Although there are variations, the Lodi Tombs generally follow one of three patterns.
- Type 1 is a tomb that consists of a dome raised on twelve columns over a square platform. The typical octagonal drum of the dome is of modest height, and the dome is usually surrounded by kangura (crenellations) and a chhajja (projecting eave). Each corner of the square tomb is marked by a chhatri (umbrella dome).
- Type 2 starts with an octagonal base. Each side of the octagon is marked by triple arches, with buttressing at each corner. The dome is supported on a sixteen-sided drum, giving the illusion of a circular space. Often, chhatris mark the entrances, and the parapet is made up of kangura and guldastas (spires).
- Type 3 looks much heavier, as each façade of the square tomb is all but solid. The pishtaq (central arch) and other arches decorating the facades are usually blind (that is, filled in with masonry rather than left open to light and air). The dome is typically supported by a sixteen-sided dome, which is itself supported by squinches of various forms.
Tombs at Lodi Gardens
The obvious place to visit tombs of the Lodi is, of course, Lodi Gardens. The Gardens are so-called because they contain the tomb of Sikander Lodi (r. 1489-1517), the second ruler of Lodi Dynasty. Here you can also explore the Bada Gumbad and the Sheesh Gumbad, both built during the reign of Sikander Lodi. Predating, but formally related to the Lodi tombs, is the tomb of Mohammad Shah of the Sayyid Dynasty (1414-1451).
Lodi Tombs in South Delhi
A large number of Lodi tombs are scattered across South Delhi from Hauz Khas (market) west to Vasant Vihar. This group of tombs starts in the east with the twelve-pillared Tomb of Makhdum Sahib, and runs west, roughly following the road west across Aurobindo Marg into Green Park. Poti ka Gumbad, Dadi ka Gumbad, Chhoti Gumti, Sakri Gumti and Biran ka Gumbad are all in easy walking distance of Aurobindo or Green Park markets. Within the forest of Deer Park, you can visit Bagh-i-Alam ka Gumbad, Tuhfewala Gumbad and Kali Gumti.
Other Lodi-Era Tombs
The third notable cluster of tombs is much more widespread, stretching east from Aurobindo Marg. The three sub-groups form a rough triangle, pinned at the corners by South Extension, Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium, and Defence Colony. Proximate to the South Extension Main Market you can visit the Kale Khan ka Gumbad (1481), as well as the unique Tomb of Darya Khan Lohani, the Chief Justice during the reign of Bahlol Lodi, and vakil (advocate) under Sikander Lodi. Slightly north of the market stand the Chhote Khan ka Gumbad and the Bade Khan ka Gumbad, as well as the much more modest Bhure Khan ka Gumbad. Defence Colony features the Tomb of Khwajah Sara Basti, a small part of a larger complex that includes a mosque and baoli (tank). Near Jawaharlal Nehru Stadium, you can view three anonymous tombs dating from the 14th-16th centuries.
Outside of these three major groups, you can spot Lodi tombs in almost any neighborhood in South Delhi—Humanyunpur, GK-1, Vasant Vihar, etc. Although many of them adhere to the three patterns described above, you will notice interesting variations in the detail, especially if you view them together.
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This is the third in a series of posts about the Lodis by a network of experts on the subject. Read part 1 and part 2.
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Great information! I’ve been looking for something like this for a while now. Thanks!
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Edwas